Concierge Prodiam replies within four business hours, Mon–Fri. Insured overnight delivery across South Africa.

  • Only natural diamonds

    Mined-Earth, never lab-grown. Kimberley Process documented from the mine of origin.

  • GIA & EGL certified

    Every loose stone certified by the GIA or EGL. Cert PDF supplied per stone.

  • Insured overnight delivery

    Brink’s, G4S or our nominated jewellery courier across South Africa. Ferrari Group / FedEx Custom Critical international.

  • 14-day in-person exchange

    In-person sales at the viewing room come with a 14-day exchange courtesy on stock pieces. Distance-sale CPA cooling-off applies.

The emerald cut: a hall of mirrors, not sparkle

An emerald cut is a step cut, its facets are long, parallel and open, arranged in steps that run down to the table like the tiers of a staircase, rather than the dozens of small brilliant facets that scatter light in a round. The result is a different kind of beauty: broad flashes of light and shadow that shift as the hand moves, the effect jewellers call a hall of mirrors. It is restrained, architectural and timeless, chosen by buyers who want elegance and a clean line over maximum fire.

Why clarity and colour matter more in an emerald

That open table is the emerald cut’s great strength and its one demand. Because you are looking straight into the stone through a large, clear window rather than through a curtain of sparkle, any inclusion or hint of body colour shows far more readily than it would in a brilliant. So an emerald cut rewards spending on the two grades a brilliant lets you relax: we generally recommend a clarity of VS or better, and a stronger colour grade, and we choose stones whose inclusions sit away from the open centre. It is the opposite of how you might spec a round, and getting it right is exactly where buying from the cutter pays off.

Settings that suit a step cut

  • Solitaire, the emerald cut alone, often in a four-claw head at the corners, the cleanest frame for its lines.
  • Three-stone with tapered baguettes, step-cut side stones that echo the centre, the most classic emerald-cut engagement setting.
  • Halo, a slim pavé frame that adds light around the open table, matched to the centre on our bench.
  • East-west, the stone set horizontally across the finger, a modern, architectural take on the cut.

Choosing an emerald cut

ChoiceWhat we make to order
Length-to-width~1.30–1.50 for the classic elongated look
CaratFrom around 0.70 ct to 5 ct and above; emerald cuts face up large for their weight
ColourD–G recommended; the open table shows tint, so a better colour grade is worth it
ClarityVS or better recommended, with inclusions kept clear of the centre
Metal18k white, yellow or rose gold, or platinum
CertificationGIA / EGL certified; report supplied with the stone

Pricing is on application, the stone drives the figure, and you receive a firm ZAR quote, excl. VAT, before any work begins.

How an emerald-cut ring is made to order

  1. 01

    Brief

    Ratio, carat, colour and clarity range, setting style, metal, budget and deadline. We respond within 24 hours.

  2. 02

    Choose the stone

    We present GIA-certified emerald cuts chosen for an even, clean face, on the daylight tray or by video, each with its report.

  3. 03

    Build & cast

    The setting is built and cast in your chosen metal, with any baguette side stones or halo matched at the bench.

  4. 04

    Set & finish

    The emerald cut is set, the ring hand-polished to a mirror finish, and checked under loupe and microscope.

  5. 05

    Hand-over

    Presentation at Bedfordview by appointment, or insured overnight courier nationwide. Certification and a written valuation included.

Comparing shapes? See the round brilliant, oval, princess and radiant cuts, or start from the loose diamonds on the bench. When you are ready, brief us and Darren will come back within 24 hours.

Emerald cut engagement rings: common questions

Why does an emerald cut sparkle less than a round diamond?

Because it is a step cut, not a brilliant. Where a round brilliant has dozens of small triangular and kite-shaped facets engineered to scatter light into fine sparkle, an emerald cut has long, parallel, open facets arranged in steps. Those facets produce broad, mirror-like flashes of light and dark rather than fine sparkle, the "hall of mirrors" effect. It is a quieter, more architectural kind of brilliance, chosen by buyers who want elegance and clarity of line rather than maximum fire.

What clarity should I choose for an emerald cut?

Higher than you might accept in a round. The emerald cut’s large, open table is like a clear window into the stone, so any inclusion or cloudiness shows far more readily than it would under the busy facets of a brilliant. We generally recommend a clarity of VS or better for an emerald cut so the stone stays clean to the eye, and we choose stones whose inclusions, if any, sit away from the open centre. The same openness shows body colour, so a better colour grade is worth the spend too.

Are emerald cut diamonds cheaper than round diamonds?

Per carat, the rough often costs less, and an emerald cut faces up large for its weight because of its spread, so on price-per-carat alone it can look like good value. But because the open cut demands a higher clarity and colour to look its best, the saving narrows once you spec it properly. We quote the actual stone on application so you are comparing the real figure, not a headline carat price.

What length-to-width ratio is classic for an emerald cut?

The classic emerald cut sits at a length-to-width ratio of about 1.30 to 1.50, long and rectangular, which is the elegant, elongating look most buyers picture. Nearer 1.30 reads squarer and fuller; nearer 1.50 reads longer and more slender. A near-square step cut at around 1.00 is an Asscher rather than an emerald cut. The report lists the measurements so you can work out the ratio.

Can you make an emerald cut engagement ring if I am not in Johannesburg?

Yes, clients commission emerald cut rings from Cape Town, Durban, Pretoria, Gqeberha and across South Africa. The stone and design conversation happens by video and WhatsApp, you approve the diamond and the setting, and the finished ring is delivered insured and overnight nationwide via Brink’s or G4S, with its certification and a written insurance valuation.