Concierge Prodiam replies within four business hours, Mon–Fri. Insured overnight delivery across South Africa.

  • Only natural diamonds

    Mined-Earth, never lab-grown. Kimberley Process documented from the mine of origin.

  • GIA & EGL certified

    Every loose stone certified by the GIA or EGL. Cert PDF supplied per stone.

  • Insured overnight delivery

    Brink’s, G4S or our nominated jewellery courier across South Africa. Ferrari Group / FedEx Custom Critical international.

  • 14-day in-person exchange

    In-person sales at the viewing room come with a 14-day exchange courtesy on stock pieces. Distance-sale CPA cooling-off applies.

Why an oval reads larger than its carat weight

An oval is a modified brilliant, the same family of light-returning facets as a round, drawn out into an elongated outline. That shape does two things at once: it presents a larger face-up area than a round of the same carat weight, so the stone looks bigger for the money, and its long axis draws the eye down the finger, which lengthens and slims the hand. For a buyer who wants visible presence and brilliance together, the oval is often the most efficient way to get both.

The bowtie, and how a good cut beats it

Every elongated brilliant carries some bowtie, a darker band across the centre where the facets shadow the eye rather than returning light. It is not a flaw in the rough; it is a consequence of how the stone is cut, so the amount varies entirely with the cutter’s skill. A well-cut oval keeps the bowtie faint and the stone bright corner to corner; a poorly cut one shows a heavy dark band that no setting can hide. Because we cut our own stones at Procut DCW, we select and finish ovals to keep the bowtie minimal, and we always show you the stone face-up under daylight so you judge it with your own eyes.

Settings for an oval, solitaire and hidden halo

  • Solitaire, the oval alone, usually in a four- or six-claw head, often with east-west or north-south orientation to taste. The clearest way to show the stone’s length.
  • Hidden halo, a concealed pavé collar beneath the centre stone that adds light and lift without widening the outline, as on the ring shown above.
  • Halo, a visible pavé frame that exaggerates the oval’s size and sparkle, matched to the centre on our bench.
  • Pavé shoulders, small diamonds set along the band to carry light down the finger, in any of the above.

Ovals suit a slightly lower claw profile and benefit from claws that protect the two narrow ends, which take the most wear. We will talk you through the trade-offs against how the ring will be worn.

Choosing an oval: ratio, colour and clarity

ChoiceWhat we make to order
Length-to-width~1.30 (fuller) to ~1.50 (longer, more elegant)
CaratFrom around 0.50 ct to 5 ct and above, to your budget and hand
ColourD–F colourless, or G–I near-colourless; ovals can carry colour at the ends, so we check face-up
ClarityAn eye-clean VS–SI1, chosen so inclusions do not show at the table
Metal18k white, yellow or rose gold, or platinum
CertificationGIA / EGL certified; report supplied with the stone

Pricing is on application, the stone drives the figure, and you receive a firm ZAR quote, excl. VAT, before any work begins.

How an oval ring is made to order

  1. 01

    Brief

    Ratio, carat, colour and clarity range, setting style, metal, budget and deadline. We respond within 24 hours.

  2. 02

    Choose the stone

    We present GIA-certified ovals at different ratios, face-up on the daylight tray or by video, each with its report.

  3. 03

    Build & cast

    The setting is built and cast in your chosen metal, with any halo or hidden-halo pavé matched at the bench.

  4. 04

    Set & finish

    The oval is set with protected ends, the ring hand-polished, and checked under loupe and microscope.

  5. 05

    Hand-over

    Presentation at Bedfordview by appointment, or insured overnight courier nationwide. Certification and a written valuation included.

Comparing shapes? See the round brilliant, princess, emerald and radiant cuts, or start from the loose diamonds on the bench. When you are ready, brief us and Darren will come back within 24 hours.

Oval engagement rings: common questions

Do oval diamonds look bigger than round diamonds of the same carat?

Generally, yes. An oval is an elongated shape, so for the same carat weight it presents a larger face-up area than a round, and the long axis draws the eye down the finger, which makes both the stone and the hand look longer and slimmer. It is one of the main reasons clients choose an oval, you tend to read more visible size per rand than you would from a round of equal weight.

What is the bowtie effect in an oval diamond?

The bowtie is a dark band that can appear across the centre of an oval (and other elongated brilliants), where the facets shadow the eye instead of returning light. Every oval has some bowtie; the question is how much. It is a function of cutting, not an inherent flaw, so a well-cut oval keeps it faint while a poorly cut one shows a heavy dark band. Because we cut our own stones, we select and finish ovals to keep the bowtie minimal, and we show you the stone face-up so you can judge it yourself.

Are oval diamonds GIA certified and graded for cut?

Our oval diamonds are GIA or EGL certified and the report grades carat, colour and clarity in full. GIA does not, however, assign an overall cut grade to fancy shapes such as the oval, it grades only polish and symmetry, so for an oval the cutter’s skill, not a printed cut grade, is what governs brilliance and how faint the bowtie is. That is exactly the part a working cutting house controls.

What length-to-width ratio is best for an oval engagement ring?

It is a matter of taste, but most clients prefer a length-to-width ratio between about 1.30 and 1.50. Nearer 1.30 looks fuller and rounder; nearer 1.50 looks longer and more elegant. The report lists the measurements so you can work the ratio out, and we will show you stones at different ratios so you can see the difference on the hand before you choose.

Can you make an oval engagement ring if I am not in Johannesburg?

Yes, clients commission oval rings from Cape Town, Durban, Pretoria, Gqeberha and across South Africa. The stone and design conversation happens by video and WhatsApp, you approve the diamond and the setting, and the finished ring is delivered insured and overnight nationwide via Brink’s or G4S, with its certification and a written insurance valuation.